Cruising the Danube from the Black Sea to the North Sea
April-May 2023

The capitals of Eastern Europe held a fascination but seemed to us to be remote and still tainted by their time under Communism. They were a long way east and appeared only accessible from a coach tour (that we did not fancy at all...). So when advertisements kept popping up for "river cruises" we decided to investigate further. There are plenty of companies in this business, from cheap and cheerful (with extra chages for everything) to 5-star gold-plated butler service. Onlilne reviews were variable but it was clear that 2 companies stand out in the river cruise business - Uniworld and Scenic. The former is heavily marketed in North America and the latter is Australian-owned with passengers dominantly from Australia, Canada, UK and New Zealand. Prices are all-inclusive, eat and drink as much as you like and all excursions are included in the cost. Perfect. We decided to book.

But along came COVID and the world retreated into its shell. Cruising died. We had to wait it out.

In 2022 we decided there was light ahead, Scenic was offering discounts for early bookings so we jumped in. Bucharest to Amsterdam covered 11 countries and 9 capital cities. Arrive on board, unpack once then settle in for 21 days of entertainment and wonder. Then came two important decision: (i) which time of year (noting the Spring cruises were cheaper) and (ii) how to get to Bucharest and home from Amsterdam, And should we add something on before and after? We had unfinished business in London so maybe the Eurostar from Amsterdam to London arriving 6 May would suit. Bucharest is close to Istanbul and we liked the idea of another visit there. BUT... getting from Istanbul to Bucharest in early April was problematic (especially by train). And then it was announced that 6 May would be Coronation Day (not the ideal time to arrive in London unless you were a mad, keen royalist). So we settled on London before and northern UK after the tour.

Scenic Cruises and the Scenic Jade

Scenic Cruises, although not the cheapest company offering Danube cruises, met all our requirements. We did not specifically choose the "Scenic Jade" - it chose us by date and itenerary. But we were very happy we were on this cruise as we found all of the staff excellent and the passengers pleasant to be with. We had high expectations of this cruise based on price, itinerary and online reviews. We were aware that this was their first full cruise since all the closures from COVID in 2021 and 2022 so there might be some "shake-down" of ship and crew required. We had 21 days on the Scenic Jade; around 20 breakfasts, lunches and dinners; countless glasses of wine, beer and cups of tea (every morning at 7am at our cabin door); daily itineraries on and off the ship and carefully selected entertainment. In all this time, activity and events not once did we detect any issue, error or concern. The cruise exceeded all of our expectations. All the crew were unfailingly cheerful and helpful. The cruise director - Silvia - was a gem. She had many years of experience on the Danube waterways, knew all of the towns and cities along the route and knew all of the local guides. She had a wonderful sense of humour, compounded by her wrestling with English that led to wonderfully frank statements. Would we recommend Scenic and the Scenic Jade - absolutely! (Scroll down this page for a few photos.)

Paul and Colma, May 2023

Our Itinerary

The Scenic Jade	Our cabin was 4th from rear, lower deck of large windows	Looking rear, sun deck
Every cruise ship has their dimensions displayed.
The main lounge	Entrance foyer and front desk with Sylvia the tour director at her desk	Steps up to the main lounge (and down to the restaurant
	Sylvia the cruise director	The Chef - today's specials
Damir - wine expert	Deck 2 corridor	Our cabin
Floor to ceiling window	The top half drops down.
	Double wardrobe for storage	Small work desk and door to bathroom
	Bathroom	Shower

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Last updated: 30 June 2023