Cruising the Danube from the Black Sea to the North Sea
April-May 2023: Day 38

Keswick, UK


The day dawned fine and warm so after breakfast we headed back to Threlkeld to search the churchyard for HOWE families. After some time we concluded that there was only one headstone - for Robert Howe. The church was open so we looked inside. High above Threlkeld was the original Howe farmhouse at High Row Farm, now extended and with modern additions. Then on to the Castlerigg Stone Circle which is within sight of the farmhouse at Threlkeld. After that we drove south around Derwentwater and up a narrow winding road to a place curiously named "Surprise View" and yes the view is a surprise when you get there. Drove on over Honister Pass, meeting a large amount of traffic. There appeared to be few pubs offering food compared to our previous trip when we went this way several years earlier. Even the nice Bridge Inn we had stopped at no longer offered food and the large car park was locked off for guests only.

Threlkeld Church and High Row Farm

Christopher HOWE was born at High Row Farm in 1765 and baptised at the local church at Threlkeld on 19 August 1765. His father was Robert HOWE who was buried at Threlkeld in 1797. We found the headstone for Robert Howe, rather weathered and difficult to read. Then we drove up to High Row Farm to look at the extensive view over the valley. The farmhouse has been extensively altered but the original building appears to exist.

Castlerigg Stone Circle

Below Threlkeld and within view of High Row Farm lies the ancient Castlerigg Stone Circle. It is also close to Keswick and is visited by many people, a lot of whom walk up the steep hill to get there.

Surprise View

The map of the Lakes District shows a location named "Surprise View". What the map does not reveal is how steep and narrow the road is, as it climbs up from the edge of Derwentwater. But when you get there and stop in the National Trust car park you find there is indeed a "surprise" view over Derwentwater.

Honister Pass

After descending from the heights of "Surprise View" we continued around Derwentwater in the hope of finding a nice pub or cafe for lunch. No such luck. The places that once existed were now all closed, or for the exclusive use of resident guests. We continued on to Honister Pass along the single track road, letting smart drivers in Ferraris and groups on motorbikes flash past. We were surprised at how many vehicles were on the roads compared to 10 years ago. The National Park is drowning in its own success.

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Last updated: 30 June 2023