From the Pacific to the Atlantic - Crossing Canada by Train 2 October - 5 November 2024
Canada 2024 21 October 2024: Day 20
Chéticamp to Sydney on the Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia.
Introduction
The road south from Chéticamp was deserted - the crowds of yesterday had vanished: we never did discover where they all went to. We soon found ourselves back at the Margarees but this time continued on
to SouthWest Margaree then turned off to pass Scotsville and Lake Ainslie, before rejoining the Cabot Trail at Whycocomagh. We turned north to take the Little Narrows Ferry, identical to the English Town one and similarly
free. We headed to Iona and over the bridge, then on to Sydney (NS not AUS). A few km out from Sydney is the Marconi National Historic Site, where Marconi established one of his first radio receiving stations for trans-Atlantic
connunications. Unfortunately, Parks Canada appear to have abandoned the site, the visitor centre was closed and the sign boards faded and hard to read. So back along a very bumpy road to our hotel - the Holiday Inn. A
short stroll along the waterfront to watch the cruise ship leave, then dinner at the nearby Governor's Pub and Eatery. Food was good, but we sat in front of their open fire, which was a bit excessive on a not-cold evening.
Chéticamp to Iona, Nova Scotia
Archie and Isadore did not do breakfast at this time of year, but they assured us the cafe next door - Restaurant Evangeline - did an excellent breakfast, so off we headed. Of course, it was Monday, the "Celtic Colours: was over
and so was Canada's Thanksgiving. Evangeline had gone on holiday. Back through Chéticamp to the next best reviewed cafe - Marguerite Boutique et Provisions. It was open, the coffee was better than most but almost no
food, not even an apology for empty cabinets. So after a miserable sweet something we headed south towards the Margarees (again). At Margaree Forks we turned south (rather than east as we did a few days earlier), through
South West Margaree and past Lake Ainslie to Whycocomagh. Then north to Aberdeen (we were now back on the Scottish side of Cape Breton) to the Little Narrows Ferry.
Archie and Isadore B&B in Chéticamp
The children's playground across the road.
St Joseph du Moine Parish Church
Memorial grinding wheel outside the church.
The road south
Must get cold here - about 20 cubic metres of firewood.
Everything looks like a lighthouse...
even the road markers.
A modest stack of firewood, guarded by pumpkins.
.
Roadworks - only two lights and a flag that raises on orange.
Lake Ainslie
The Little Narrows Ferry, also free.
Little Narrows to Iona
From the ferry the road turns south and then east to the small village of Iona, on the shore of Bras D'Or Lake. Here is another narrow section of the lake (Barra Strait), this time with road and rail bridges. The rail bridge
is disused, but it had a section that swivelled to open the way for shipping. Today it is permanently open. The road bridge has a cantilever section that can be raised. Iona has a large church on the lake front - St Columba of course.
Approaching Iona
St Columba Church beside the lake and bridge approach.
The rail and road bridges.
The rail bridge, permanently open.
War Memorial at St Columba.
Heading onto the bridge.
North towards Sydney.
Highway 125 taking us east around Sydney
Entering Table Head to look for the Marconi Site.
The Marconi Site at Table Head
We had read much about the pioneering work of Marconi and his radio system, connecting Canada to Britain. Here at Table Head was his first commercial transmitter, now an historic site managed by Parks Canada. Their
website was not clear on opening dates, so we went anyway . Of course it was closed (the recently updated website has opening times of 1 July to 2 September). There are good reviews of the displays and museum inside but...
Table Head
Flint Island and lightlouse in the distance.
Sydney Harbourfront
Feeling disappointed and rather hungry (nothing since the miserable breakfast much earlier) we returned down the bumpy road until we spied a Tim Horton's. That will do - food and coffee were OK but ordering was a challenge
as I could not understand the staff - must be a strange local dialect. But the local who ordered after me had the same problem. Now feeling better we headed into Sydney and the Holiday Inn on the waterfront. A walk along the harbour edge
found a newly constructed boardwalk, some memorials and a great view of the cruise ships in port. The back to the hotel and later a short walk to the Governor's Pub and Eatery,
where we roasted beside their open fire.
The new board walk at Sydney.
In case you are lost.
The cruise ship terminal - known as the "Big Fiddle".
Departure time.
Keith's Beer - maybe a cousin?
Sunset over Sydney
The room in the hotel had a great view towards the west, where would could see the sun setting over Sydney Harbour. Here is a timelapse of the sunset.
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