From the Pacific to the Atlantic - Crossing Canada by Train 2 October - 5 November 2024
Canada 2024 20 October 2024: Day 19
Baddeck to Chéticamp on the Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia.
Introduction
Today was our big day on the Cabot Trail. We had planned to drive anti-clockwise from Baddeck to Chéticamp, whereas many people drive the other way around (or so we were led to believe). It doesn't
make much difference, or so the reviews told us. It was mid-October. The rest of the maritime provinces were dead so we were expecting a quiet road. As we departed the Telegraph House a guest (somewhat self-opinionated)
heard our voices and asked where we were from - NZ she guessed. Are you going to Chéticamp (yes), Halifax (yes) then in Halifax you MUST dine at the Bicycle Thief (I know - but it was booked out weeks ahead). Are you planning
to walk the Skyline Trail (maybe), then you should do it in the morning: it will be MUCH too busy in the evening (yes, thank you, we thought, mid-October and nobody about).
First, breakfast across the road at the Wheelers Cafe. Surprisingly full of people, so after coffee and croissants off we went.
We took the quaint Englishtown Ferry then travelled on; the Cabot Trail road was good in parts but overall in very poor condition. In places it was dangerously potholed - so much for one of the most advertised road trips in
Canada. The colours in the trees however were outstanding. We had timed the trip to perfection. We stopped at the great viewing area known as Pathend Brook Lookout. A few more cars there, but then... 30 or so classic cars
in convoy roared past us; then 30 or so modifed vehicles, then 30 or so motor bikes. The race was on to do the Cabot Trail on a nice fine Saturday. We decided against the gondola ride at Ski Cape Smokey and
passed the Park HQ at Ingonish Beach. We turned off at Neil's Harbour to take the "road less travelled" out to White Point, then we turned off at Cape North to go out to Bay St Lawrence, a small harbour near the top of Cape
Breton. Back on the Cabot Trail we kept meeting up with the classic car convoy. Finaly we arrived at the entrance to the Skyline Trail carpark. This trail is popular, especially in the late afternoon as you get a great view of the
ocean at sunset. Road cones and a speed restriction gave us a clue - the car park was already full and traffic was congested while drivers wondered what to do next. Where did they all come from?
And where did they all go?
We arrived at Chéticamp and found the Archie and Isadora B&B. We had already booked dinner at L'Abri Restaurant, but not until 8.30 pm. This restaurant is acclaimed by some as the best in
Cape Breton. We were underwhelmed. Their menu was limited. We chose the tempura-battered fish - afterall this is a fishing
port. The batter was excellent if a little too crunchy but the small piece of fish inside had been cooked to death. Did not live up to the hype. The B&B on the other hand was excellent and had many extra features
(such as a real electric kettle) that we appreciated.
Baddeck to Englishtown Ferry
Daybreak brought a nice sunrise. Then we needed breakfast, but the Telegraph Hotel, with its wonderful restaurant had now closed for the season (the "colours" was over), so breakfast was across the road at the Wheelers
Cafe. Surprisingly full of people and the staff working hard to sell everything left behind the counter - they closed at 11am "for the season", but it was all sweet and sugary so no good for our lunch. We survived the sugar and then
headed north to the Englishtown Ferry. This ferry (free!) takes you across a narrow stretch of water from Englishtown to Jersey Cove, then we rejoined the Cabot Trail north. We were third in the queue so we were soon on the
ferry, but not all the cars behind us were on that trip. I suspect the queues only lengthened later in the day.
Sunrise over Baddeck - should be a fine day.
Breakfast at Wheelers Cafe
The Telegraph Hotel
On the road to the Cabot Trail
.
Englishtown...
and the queue for the ferry
This is a cable ferry
Not sure why the ferry needed protecting.
The Nova Scotia flag and the moon.
Englishtown Ferry to Pathend Brook Lookout
After driving off the ferry we head north, first along the narrow gravel barrier then back onto Highway 30 - the Cabot Trail. The Autumn colours in the trees was superb. The Trail skirted the coast,
but at times headed inland to avoid headlands. Eventually it climbed a steep bluff to the Pathend Brook Lookout. We stopped - this was a genuine lookout rather than a "look off". The road had been good in parts but overall
it was in very poor condition. In places it was dangerously potholed - so much for one of the most advertised road trips in Canada. The colours in the trees however were outstanding. We had timed the trip to perfection. We
stopped at the great viewing area known as Pathend Brook Lookout. A few more cars there, but then... 30 or so classic cars in convoy roared past us; then 30 or so modifed vehicles, then 30 or so motor bikes. What!!
The race was on to do the Cabot Trail on a nice fine Saturday.
Back on the Cabot Trail
Climbing the hill towards the Pathend Brook Lookout
Looking north...
and looking south
A section of the road we had just travelled is visible, but...
what are all those classic cars doing here?
Suddenly the carpark was full.
Pathend Brook Lookout to White Point
After passing Ingonish Ferry we paused at the gondola rides at Ski Cape Smokey, but decided not to spend the time (or money). We continued on past the Park HQ at Ingonish Beach.
We turned off at Neil's Harbour to take the "road less travelled" out to White Point. Apparently many others had the same idea (or had been told the same story by the helpful receptionist in Baddeck) so the road was rather
crowded.
A small selection of the classic cars.
Coming into Ingonish
Cap Smokey ski field ahead.
Looking out to Ingonish Island
The crows were friendly.
Granite at Black Brook Cove
Back on the Cabot Trail.
Approaching Park HQ
More of those classic cars.
Neil's Harbour
Maybe an early lunch at the Chowder House - no, it was closed.
Neil's Harbour Lighthouse
New Haven
Road to White Point
End of the road.
Bit close to the cliff I think...
so is this one!
White Point to Bay St Lawrence
From White Point we continued back to the Cabot Trail and north to the turnoff at Bay St Lawrence Road. This took us north to the top of Cape Breton and to the small fishing village of Bay St Lawrence. This time there
were few vehicles. We stopped for a snack at the end of the road, and watched the pied shags lined up on the breakwater, then back to the small but interesting church and cemetery of St Margaret's Church. There were many
headstones, often with simple pictures of favourite items (tractors, playing cards, spanners, deer etc).
Junction of White Point adn New Haven Roads. The cyclists had a truck and trailer to carry their bikes.
Back on the Cabot Trail.
If it's nae Scottich...
Turnoff to Bay St Lawrence
They like their Gaelic heritage here.
Entering Bay St Lawrence.
"Welcome" it reads...
The harbour
St Margaret of Scotland
Maybe a farmer who liked his tea?
Joey - card fixer?
Rev. Brig-General James A MacLean (Canadian Navy padre)
The Cabot Trail to Chéticamp
From Bay St Lawrence we returned back down the road, passing the North Highlands Elementary School on our way back to Cape North. Back on the Cabot Trail we were now heading southwest, cutting across the top
of Cape Breton. There was not much traffic but we kept meeting up with the classic car convoy. We stopped at a lookout near the top of the mountain climb at North Mountain Look-off (this one was a look-off, not a look-out) to
view the mountainous terrain, the colours and the Asply Faultline. At the bottom of the hill the road meets the coast, where we paused to visit Pleasant Bay and its whale-watching adventures. The road soon heads inland again and climbs steeply
to the MacKenzie Mountain Look-off, but no whales to be seen. Finally we arrived at the entrance to the Skyline Trail carpark. This trail is popular, especially in the late afternoon as you get a great view of the ocean at
sunset. We were met with road cones, a speed restriction and people in hi-viz - had there been a crash? No, (as we had been warned) the car park was already full and traffic was congested while drivers wondered what to do
next. Where did they all come from? And where did they all go?
North Highlands Elementary School.
Cabot Trail continued..
A lookout! (actually its a "Look-off"
North Mountain Lookoff
The Aspy Fault
Cruched rocks in the fault zone.
Entering Pleasant Bay
The closest we got to seeing a whale...
What are these? Igloos? Yurts?
At Mackenzie Mountain look-off
Looking north.
Looking down on the igloos.
Low speed limit, red cones everywhere and people in Hi-viz. Entrance to the Skyline Walk Carpark.
The road ahead.
La Bloc.
Le Buttereau. On this side of the Cape everything is in French.
Entering Chéticamp.
We arrived at Chéticamp and found the Archie and Isadora B&B. We had already booked dinner at L'Abri Restaurant, but not until 8.30 pm. With most accommodation and eating places closed for the
season those still open were very busy. So we dined at L'Abri, the restaurant acclaimed as the best in Cape Breton. We were underwhelmed. Their menu was limited. We chose the tempura-battered fish - after all this is a
fishing port. The batter was excellent if a little too crunchy but the small piece of fish inside had been cooked to death. Did not live up to the hype. The B&B on the other hand was excellent and had many extra features
(such as a real electric kettle) that we appreciated.
Sunset over Chéticamp
The room in the B&B had a great view towards the west, where would could see the sun setting over Chéticamp Island. Here is a timelapse of the sunset.
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