From the Pacific to the Atlantic - Crossing Canada by Train
2 October - 5 November 2024

Canada 2024
13 October 2024: Day 12

Twillingate to Harbour Grace, Newfoundland.

Introduction

Being so late in the season the Anchor Inn was no longer offering breakfast, but the cafe and art gallery across the road was open so we tried there. We then drove back down the peninsula to rejoin the TCH at Gander. Gander has a large airfield, built during WW2 as the location is half-way along the great-circle route from New York to London (over the North Pole). Surprisingly, Gander is also world famous for all the wrong reasons. From Gander we continued east on the TCH until the exit to head north towards Harbour Grace. We first passed through the oddly named town of "Dildo". At Harbour Grace we paused at the Amelia Earhart Memorial, then the town and the church cemetery where distant relations - the Godden family - are buried. All the headstones were so badly weathered they were illegible. We booked into our B&B - the Sea Breeze B&B. We had a large upstairs room with views over the front garden and on to the harbour beyond. It was a comfortable place to stay.

Breakfast in Twillingate

Being so late in the season the Anchor Inn was no longer offering breakfast, but the cafe and art gallery across the road was open so we tried there. A good choice, they had good coffee and nice breakfast muffins with bacon and egg. Also scones and donuts. We paused a while, looked at the artwork and the knitted mittens, then bought a filled roll for our lunch (it proved to be delicious). We drove back down the peninsula to rejoin the TCH at Gander.

Sunrise over Twillingate

Hodge Premises that did a surprisingly good breakfast.

And their wool crafts for sale.

Country roads to rejoin the TCH at Gander

We saw many of these strange wooden boxes by the roadside all over Newfoundland - always wood and always octagonal. What are they?

The road south from Twillingate

Even the yellow school buses were on holiday..

Where the 330 meets the TCH 1. The stop sign looks very temporary.

We turned right back towards Deer Lake..

until we found the flags for the Gander Aviation Museum.

Gander and the Aviation Museum

Gander has a large airfield, built during WW2 as the location is half-way along the great-circle route from New York to London (over the North Pole). Surprisingly, Gander is world famous for all the wrong reasons. First it was the site of Canada's worst air disaster. In 1985 a plane loaded with Canadian troops crashed on takeoff. The cause was put down to the extra weight of the troops plus their kit and the effects of the bad weather building up ice on the wings. Second in 2011 at the time of the 9/11 disasters all aircraft in US and Canadian airspace were ordered to land at the nearest available airfield. Thus 8 large planes with 6,500 people arrived in Gander unannounced. They were there for up to 4 days. The residents rallied and housed many of the passengers. The event is now a stage musical "Come Away By".

Yes, of course it was closed.

The town of Benton

We could not drive past this small location without a quick visit and a few photos.

This sign and the cemetery were the largest parts of Benton.

Onwards to Harbour Grace

From Gander we continued east on the TCH. It was another 300km to Harbour Grace. At Exit 28 we turned noth on highway 80 to the oddly named town of "Dildo". Near Harbour Grace we paused at the Amelia Earhart Memorial. Here is the plane she flew on the first trans-Atlantic solo flight the "Spirit of Harbour Grace". Then the town and the church cemetery where distant relations - the Godden family - are buried. All the headstones were so badly weathered they were illegible. The B&B we had booked was just along the road - the Sea Breeze B&B. We had a large upstairs room with views over the front garden and on to the harbour beyond. It was a comfortable place to stay. Dinner that night was always going to be a difficulty - there are few restaurants in Harbour Grace anyway but it was Thanksgiving Day in Canada so only the Harbour Grace Hotel was open. The menu was limited. Commercial fish and chips again, although they had a turkey roast dinner on special as a nod to Thanksgiving. It proved better than the fish...

Approaching the town of Dildo.

Down hill to the waters of Harbour Grace

The Ameila Earhart Memorial

Of course there were cape Cod chairs.

Yet another octagonal box - Ah yes, they hold rubbish bins to foil the bears. The bears don't bother because they are looking for a square meal...!

The sights of Harbour Grace

We were interested in the Munn/Godden House

St Paul's Church.

Nearby was the larger Catholic Church

A local residence

The Marples House c.1903

Ridley Hall - a registered historic place - was built in 1864 by Thomas Ridley, a fishing merchant. It was destroyed by fire in 2003.

The Rotheday Munn/Godden House - closed and overgrown when we arrived. No wonder they did not answer my accommodation enquiries!

The Rothersay garage has seen better days.

The Museum - closed of course.

Fishing is the major industry here - so why no fresh fish at the restaurant?

Belle View B&B at Harbour Grace

Ideally, we would have stayed at Rothesay House B&B at Harbour Grace, as this was once owned by the Godden family, but our messages about accommodation and dinner went unanswered. On visiting the house we found it closed up and overgrown and the garage in ruins, propped up by a stick of timber. So we stayed at the Belle View, another historic homestead further along Water St. It was a delightful place to stay and their breakfast was superb. With the trees and the view of the harbour it would be an ideal place in summer.

The Belle View B&B