From the Pacific to the Atlantic - Crossing Canada by Train
2 October - 5 November 2024

Canada 2024
24 October 2024: Day 23

Windsor to Halifax in Nova Scotia.

Introduction

Breakfast at The August Inn was in a small room off their lounge, being a buffet of cereals etc and hot oatmeal - more of a hot muesli. Ezra, the host explained to us the sights of Windsor and then how we should take the country roads to get to Lunenburg and Peggy's Cove. He was correct in a way. These two places are widely regarded as the tourist jewels in the crown of Nova Scotia, after the Cabot's Trail of course. Both are small coastal, fishing communities, now largely reliant on tourism. Peggy's Cove has the lighthouse and intriguing granite rock platform: Lunenberg has old houses and shops that remarkably, had not been destroyed by fire as so many other coastal towns had been. We were looking forward to these highlights but the weather was not conducive to coastal driving. The morning dawned with a thick sea fog that persisted all morning - Lunenburg was not visible at all and the famed lighthouse at Peggy's Cove only came into view as we were leaving. So we headed for Halifax and the Cambridge Suites Hotel, dropped off our bags and then returned the (rather muddy) rental car. We had clocked up over 3300km in 9 days. We dined that evening at the hotel.

The Road to Lunenburg

After refuelling the hungry Jeep Grand Cherokee we took the road south towards Lunenburg. The morning was dull and overcast but soon we ran into a dense sea fog, and that was the end of the views for the day. Ironic really, we had seena lot of the Canadian Maritime Provinces with mostly good weather, but the day the tourist books claim to be the best ever scenery was invisible in the fog.

Heading out of Windsor

Looks a bit foggy up ahead...

where's the road gone?

In Lunenburg - where??

The main street full of quaint buildings - really?

Lunenburg - what we SHOULD have seen!!

Peggy's Cove

We left Lunenburg and took the long winding road to Peggy's Cove. There were many vehicles and tour coaches on the road, but they would not have seen anything either. The lighthouse at Peggy's Cove was shrouded in fog so as it was late morning we looked for coffee and food, hoping the fog would clear. Near the light is The Sou'Wester Cafe - it was full of disappointed tourists and was so hot we had to get out before we expired. Nearby was Tom's Lobster Shack with open-air tables. However Tom was about to close up (tomorrow would be his last day) and most of his menu was off: we settled for a Lobster Roll and a bagel. Only iced coffees on offer.

Heading for Peggy's Cove.

There is alighthouse behind those chairs...

Taking selfies - they only thing they could photograph.

Sou'Wester and Clawsby (on the left)

Tom's menu - mostly deleted

Tom's bagel

Tom's Classic lobster roll.

Look - there really is a lighthouse here!

Back to Halifax

With little prospect that the fog would lift (theere was no wind) we abandoned Peggy's Cove and headed for Halifax. The road passes small ponds and inlets from the sea before turning north to Halifax. We had chosen an hotel close to the centre of Halifax and close to the Citadel so it was easy to find. After checking in we dropped the Jeep back to Budget only a few blocks away. We were now reliant on our feet and public tansport.

Departing