From the Pacific to the Atlantic - Crossing Canada by Train
2 October - 5 November 2024

Canada 2024
18 October 2024: Day 17

Charlottetown to Pictou.

Introduction

With the cancellation of the Wood Island to Digby ferry we would now have to drive off the island, so our itinerary was re-arranged. Today we headed north to Cavendish to visit the most famous farm house in Canada - Green Gables - the home of the stories of "Anne of Green Gables", written by Lucy Maud Montgomery.

The house of Green Gables has been very well preserved. There is a modern building in front that houses a museum and visitor centre with excellent displays about LM Montgomery the author. It was well worth the time to visit.

From Cavendish we headed south across PEI towards the Confederation Bridge. PEI has devised a clever traveller tax - you only pay to LEAVE the island, regardless of whether it is by road, ferry or air. There is no fee to enter.

Once back onto mainland Canada we headed east through rural farmland and forest to reach to the historic town of Pictou one of the earliest European settlements in Canada. We had booked here assuming we would be arriving from the ferry, but when it was cancelled we decided to visit Pictou anyway. The town clearly caters for the tourist trade that the ferries provide. We stayed at the Seabank House B&B, an historic house in the centre of the town. It is run by a charming couple - Elizabeth and Glen. Our room, named "Ahoy Matey" for its nautical theme, was very comfortable and well appointed. From there it was a short walk to the Nook and Cranny Restaurant and Bar on the waterfront. The best food we had been served so far on this trip and it came with the added benefit of live music.

Green Gablesk

The farm house of Green Gables at Cavendish is a National Historic Site, adminstered by Parks Canada. It is the most famous farm house in Canada and one of the most visited. "Anne of Green Gables" is known throughout the world and the world of Lucy Maud Montgomery is revered by generations of young readers. The property is is a wonderful place to visit - AND it was open when we arrived! We toured the museum, the barn and outbuildings and then Green Gables itself. Finally we had a coffee at the small cafe, but we decided against the "Beavertails" and the "BeaverDog".

Entrance to Green Gables

Yes! It's OPEN!

First glimpse of Green Gables

The visitor centre

The Green Gables garden

The garden

These chairs are everywhere!

Ready to enter.

Inside Green Gables.

Apparently the family did ALL of their cooking on this!

The wallpaper is ... hideous.

The woodland beside the house

Yep, Canada geese.

Entrance to the cafe.

Only in Canada...

Driving off PEI and on to Pictou

We were keen to visit Pictou, one of the earliest European settlements in Canada. easy, Drive from Charlottetown to Wood Island and then the car ferry across to Caribou in Nova Scotia. Booked and paid for - then the email: ferry cancelled due to urgent maintenance work. So a 40 minute drive became 3 hours back across the Confederation Bridge. We were booked into the "Ahoy Matey" room at the Seabank House B&B so decided to keep the booking. It was a great decision. The road from Cavendish to the bridge is not straight-forward - in fact is has so many dog-legs we lost count. Thankfully Googel Maps kept track and eventually we were paying the toll to get off the island, and back to Nova Scoatia. We then chose the road less travelled, through Amherst, Pugwash, Tatamagouche and River John before we arrived at Pictou.

Leaving Green Gables..

and driving through Cavendish.

Although the roads look straight, there were many turns and intersections to get from Cavendish to the bridge.

Plenty of potatoes to harvest on the island.

Toll Bridge ahead.

A quick stop at the park beside the Confederation Bridge.

Might be windly here on occasions.

And on to the toll booth.

Crossing the bridge.

And back onto the mainland.

Picturesque byways to get to Pictou.

There's water ahead, must be Pictou.

Pictou

The messages from Seabank House were clear: no check-in before 4pm. So on the chime of 4 we and three other couples arrived, much to Elizabeth's surprise. We walked the streets of Pictou, finding interesting shops, cafes and Mrs MacGregor's Shortbread Shop, where we bought a bag of shortbread, of course. Then down to the waterfront to see a new art installation and a memorial to the No2 Construction Battalion - Canada's only coloured battalion in WW1. Dinner was at the Nook and Cranny Restaurant complete with live music.

Looking across Pictou harbour