From the Pacific to the Atlantic - Crossing Canada by Train
2 October - 5 November 2024

Canada 2024
16 October 2024: Day 15

Hopewell Rocks, New Brunswick to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island.

Introduction

Breakfast at the Amsterdam Inn was fairly basic but it was free. (Yippee! But this means the locals pile their plates and bowls even higher...).We headed west on a road trip that circled south and west to reach the shores of the Bay of Fundy. We made the detour to the lighthouse at Cape Enrage but found the lighthouse was closed. We continued on, now travelling north to reach the iconic Hopewell Rocks National Park. We paid the steep fee to enter (about $CAN35 despite the old-age discount) but it did allow us access for 2 consecutive days (useless as far as I can see). We walked to the various viewing platforms. Although the weather was fine with scattered cloud the air temperature was only about 6C. We arrived just on high tide (which was planned): the tidal range this day was 13.5 metres. The visitor centre has some good exhibits - it also has a cafe where we stopped to warm up and to have soup for lunch (tomato and Acadian fricot).

The road trip continued back through Moncton and north towards Prince Edward Island, the last of the Canadian provinces to be visited on this trip. For many years PEI was only accessible by ferry, but in 1997 the federal government opened a new bridge to join PEI to the mainland. The bridge is 12.5 km long and took 4 years to build. It is the world's longest bridge to span ice-covered water. Just as we approached the bridge the rain started in ernest, so we saw little of the bridge and even less of the strait below. (But, with the ferries cancelled we would be back over the bridge in a few days). We proceeded on to Charlottetown, the capital of PEI, where the rain continued. Dinner was at the nearby The Local Pub and Oyster Bar. Yes they sold oysters, mussels and other seafood delicacies and yes, they did a better job of the food than anywhere else we had dined to date.

Moncton to Cape Enrage

From the Amsterdam Inn at Moncton we headed west on a road trip that then circled south and east to reach the shores of the Bay of Fundy, passing through Petitcodiac and Anagance before turning south at Penobsquis. This took us across wooded hills in their Fall colours before starting the descent towards the coastal lands of marshes, lakes and lagoons of the Bay of Funday. We stopped at the Fundy National Park Observation Deck to look over the by, then continued on to Alma. Protruding into the bay is a point known as Cape Enrage, complete with a lighthouse and viewing platforms. We made the detour to the lighthouse but found the road down to the lighthouse was closed and the viewing platfoms inaccessible. Not sure why? Maybe it was a health and safety cop-out.

Heading west out of Moncton on the TCH.

Turnoff from the TCH onto 114 east to Alma. The icons are interesting, I presume the boiled egg is for breakfast?

South and east on the 114.

"Celebrating 17 million seedlings planted in 2024"

Fundy National Park Observation platform on the right.

The Bay of Fundy...

and a viewing platform.

with the requisite Cap Cod chairs

and recycling bins.

Approaching Alma and the Fundy coastline.

The turnoff to Cape Enrage is just over the bridge.

Pebble Beach, just before the final climb to Cape Enrage

1km to viewing, adventures, dining and gift shop - NOT!

What might have been...

Cape Enrage to Hopewell Rocks

The road north from Cape Enrage (what an apposite name) passes through farming country before rejoining the main road at Riverside-Albert. We then followed the 114 north to the turn-off to Hopewell Rocks. This location has a large car park, with plenty of spaces for motor homes, caravans (RVs) and buses, but it was all rather empty.

They will be disappointed to find the cafe closed.

Riverside-Albert

North on the 114

The turnoff to Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks National Park

We paid the steep fee to enter (about $CAN35 despite the old-age discount) but it did allow us access for 2 consecutive days (useless as far as I can see). We then walked past the visitor centre to the closest viewing platform. Although the weather was fine with scattered cloud the air temperature was only about 6C. We arrived just on high tide (which was planned): the tidal range this day was 13.5 metres. I then walked throught he forest, was entertained by a squirrel and eventually reached the step that allows access to the shore and coastal platform at low tide. There was a ranger on guard at the top to stop anybody foolish enough to brave the high tide. I ten walked back to the visitor centre, which has some good exhibits - it also has a cafe where we stopped to warm up and to have soup for lunch (Tomato Soup and Acadian fricot - AKA chicken soup).

Welcome - Bienvenue!

Shall we go left or right?

Right, to look over Daniel's Flats.

And Fundy with the high tide

Diamond Rock

Yes it was cold...

Path through the forest

Elephant Rock viewing platform

Free entertainment..

High tide was at 1137 - I was late at 1149. Warning - don't go UP the DOWN staircase...

Hopewell Rocks at high tide.

High pressure hoses to get the mud off your shoes and boots.

Back up to the visitor centre

And their displays

What it looks like at low..

mid..

and high tide.

Warming soup - tomato and chicken fricot.

And yes there were bears there.

Hopewell Rocks to Prince Edward Island

The road trip continued back through Moncton and north towards Prince Edward Island, the last of the Canadian provinces to be visited on this trip (And yes, PEI was named by the Duke of Kent who suggested it might be named after himself - Prince Edward). For many years PEI was only accessible by ferry, but in 1997 the federal government opened a new bridge to join PEI to the mainland. The bridge is 12.5 km long and took 4 years to build. It is the world's longest bridge to span ice-covered water. Just as we approached the bridge the rain started in ernest, so we saw little of the bridge and even less of the strait below. (But, with the ferries cancelled we would be back over the bridge in a few days). We proceeded on to Charlottetown, the capital of PEI, where the rain continued. Dinner was at the nearby The Local Pub and Oyster Bar. Yes they sold oysters, mussels and other seafood delicacies and yes, they did a better job of the food than anywhere else we had dined to date.

Exiting Hopewell Rocks